1. From Kathmandu Nepal
2. From Chengdu China
3. From Golmud China

By Land:

Travel to Tibet requires a Chinese visa and a permit for travel within Tibet, but I have known  people to travel with a Chinese
visa only.

Chinese Visa:
Unfortunately the border between Nepal and Tibet is often closed to individual travellers.  If you do to enter Tibet from Nepal then the authorities could well cancel your Chinese visa or return you to KTM with the argument that only group travel is allowed.  Nevertheless, at least half of the time it is possible to cross the border, as I did myself in May '97.  After that, through the Hong Kong takeover the border was closed and only opened sporadically in '98.  Some people got through, others got returned.  I didn't try myself in '98, but from what I have heard mostly people could go in.  So if you like the thrill and have enough time then try this way.  If it doesn't work out, just get the required travel permit  in KTM.

In '99, many people tried at the beginning of the season but everyone got returned and had to buy a travel permit in KTM.
Towards the end of the season some larger groups  managed to get direct entry but they sometimes paid even more than they would have in KTM.   I know of only about 10 people who actually saved some money through travelling this route.  They saved about 30$  compared to the price in KTM  but they did not have the comfort of a tourist bus and they lost up to a day through trouble at the border.  To me it looks as though entry into Tibet as an individual traveller is getting more and more difficult!

To enter Tibet from KTM one travels as follows:  early in the morning (between 5 - 7 a.m.) there are buses leaving for Kodari (the Nepal - Tibet crossing point) from the old bus station near Ratna Park in KTM.  The fare costs around NR65 The bus ride takes about 6 to 8 hours and it is usually very crowded.
To get from Kodari over the Friendship Bridge to Zhangmu, the first village acrosss the border in Tibet, you can either walk (8 kms, 2 ½ hours) or take a truck ( ½ hour/ NR 300).
Be aware that there is a time change of 2 ¼ hours (Tibet is on Beijing time).  After crossing the border you have to get a travel permit through the CITS office.  You will find  this office situated 500 meters on the right after the Friendship Bridge (question: after the Friendship Bridge?) next to the PSB (question: what is that).  The office is usually closed and you can try to find the guy in charge through the PSB.

However, normally they will tell you to come the following morning to apply for a travel permit.  For the permit you pay approx. 1200Yuan ('97/'98 rate).  This includes a drive straight to Shigatse (1 ½ days) or Lhasa (2 ½ days) if they have a car the same day.  Otherwise you will leave as soon as they have a car.

An alternative way to travel is with a permit obtained in KTM.  If you don't like the thrill of uncertainty and have limited time only, then you can take transport from KTM to Lhasa for 250$.  This trip includes a 4 hour transfer by tourist bus to Kodari, and then a drive to Nyalam (day 1); to Lhatse (day 2); to Shigatse (day 3); to Lhasa (day 4).  There are only very few agencies in KTM which offer this kind of cheap trip. You can also do this trip without a Chinese visa, travelling on a group visa of 5 pax minimum.  The only difference is that you have to  enter and leave the country the same time and of course pay a visa fee.  The cost has just increased and is generally around 35$ for all nationalities.
 
 
 

By Air:

The cost of the permit is 125$.  Your Chinese visa stays intact and you are completely individual! ( included is the transfer to the hotel in Lhasa). The flight price is the same all over KTM, at 276$ (this is an increase on last year's price since China South West have unfortunately raised the price by 20%).  I haven't heard of cheaper ways of going by air but there are always special circumstances in Nepal which make almost everything possible.

Be aware there are only a few agencies with whom you can travel independently!!!  All the others will tell you that it is not possible because they don't know their own market.  Generally you will find yourself relatively free to travel around in Tibet, the Chinese authorities normally treat foreigners in a kind and friendly way.

Other regular trips include 8 days overland to Lhasa.  The price includes transport, hotel, guide and sightseeing/entrance fees. The price is pretty fixed in all the agencies at around 400$.  All in all, it is a nice trip.  I went to Tibet this way the first time and was very satisfied.  The cheapest way to exit Tibet for KTM is by bus from Lhasa to the Nepalese border (2-3 days for 350Yuan). You will find notices about these trips in various hotels in Lhasa.  In the high season there are about 2 trips a week. The days are not fixed because travel depends on the groups which have to be picked up at the border.
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Chengdu is usually a very cheap and welcoming place from which one can enter  Tibet.  But in '99, unfortunately, they started to increase the price by about 30%. Not only do you have to pay a higher fee for the air ticket, but now they require 3000Yuan ( : 8.07= 371$) instead of 2100-2300Yuan (250-280$). This price includes the flight an obligatory tour you must book all you get out of this is cheap dormitory accommodation and a guide showing you around in the monasteries.

I also heard from several people that once they arrived in Lhasa they were hassled by the guide or some agencies.  They were told  to book more tours otherwise they would be thrown out of the country.   On my first visit this year I met some people who had entered Tibet this way and they described  horror experiences of  feeling watched all the time and bothered by the guide since it seems that some agencies in Lhasa try to make a profit through frightening young inexperienced travellers.

At that time I was travelling to Lhasa with some friends and we had a great and relaxed time along the way and then in and around Lhasa travelling on our own.

 So make sure you book your trips with reliable agencies who do not want to play games with you!  Chengdu itself has a very nice atmosphere, delicious food and the Chinese people there are very welcoming.
 

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The price for a permit and a regular bus from Golmud is about the same (1600Yuan) as if you would enter Tibet from Kathmandu.  But it is only a bus, not even a sleeper bus. I have already done this journey twice and it is very exhausting if you don't travel by sleeper.  The journey can take up to 56 hours depending on how many breakdowns your bus has.  Normally it should take 24 hours.  All in all it is a nice trip if you have good endurance and if you are already in that region, otherwise the travelling out there is time and money-consuming.
 

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